There are 3 main islands for travellers to stay, Don Khong, Don Det and Don Khone. Most backpackers will opt for Don Det and the quieter Don Khone for more budget friendly accommodation. In fact, Don Det is connected to Don Khone via a bridge.
I spent a wonderful 4 days 3 nights, based in Don Det. The key activities here are relaxing, sunset watching, cycling, dolphin watching and kayaking. There are few waterfalls to explore, mainly the famous Khon Phapeng and Li Phi waterfalls.
I stayed at different guesthouses on different nights. That was because the 1st chalet I booked was too far from the pier. So, the next morning, I walked to look for nearer guesthouse but could not get a nice river view accommodation. The 3rd day, I managed to get a river view guesthouse with hammock on the balcony nearby. The accommodation is basic but with a toilet but do not expect a 3 star stay. Anyway, that is what a backpacker would like it for, a basic accommodation. Each costs about 40,000 to 60,000 kip per night.
Day 1
I rented a bicycle (10,000 kip per day) to explore the nearby Don Khone island by crossing over a bridge. It took about 1 hour to reach a hidden beach with great landscape. Then I proceeded to the impressive Li Phi (Somphamit) Waterfalls, the largest in Don Khone. The road is gravel and can only accommodate a bicycle, a motobike or a bull cart. In the evening, I enjoyed one of the most rewarding colorful sunsets in a riverside restaurant. Seeing the kids bathing in the river with the orange backdrop ray from the sunset is truly mesmerising.
Sunset at Mekong River
Day 2
I found a new accommodation nearer to the pier, had a wonderful chat with a fellow traveller before I rented a bicycle to explore further. This time I went to the southern most of Don Khone near the Cambodian border where the Irrawady Dolphins are found. I went for a boat ride in the open river, trying to spot a dolphin but could only see the back of the dolphin far away. On the ride back, I explored the surrounding villages around Don Khone. Life here is laidback with picturesque river backgrounds.
Day 3
I joined a full kayaking and waterfall sightseeing tour. It started with a boat ride to a village, trekked a little to visit another impressive hidden waterfalls. Then we trekked to a river to start kayaking. We reached the open river, trying to spot a dolphin but to no avail, probably due to the heat. It was scorching hot when we reached a small island in the middle of the Mekong River to have a simple lunch and relax. Since it is next to Cambodia, we could hear loud Cambodian music in the midst of isolated beach.
In the afternoon, we kayak to a nearby village, where we took a pick up lorry to visit the crown of waterfalls, the Khon Phapeng Waterfalls. The trip ended with a pick up drive again to the mainland pier before we took the boat back to Don Det.
Day 4
Time to say goodbye. It was surreal to enjoy the river view from my chalet. Next destination, Pakse.
Riverview Chalet
How to get to Don Det from Vientiane:
1. Take an overnight VIP bus from Vientiane to Pakse. This is the sleeper bus where you will be placed next to the same gender except for couple to have a long sleeping ride. The bus ride is around 9-10 hours.
2. From Pakse, take another 3-4 hours bus/van ride directly to 4000 Island pier. From there, take a boat ride. Normally the tour agent in Vientiane will sell the 2 in 1 bus ride ticket for convenience.
It is indeed a long journey but worth the effort to travel.